Day 21 – Veliko Gradište to Donji Milanovac

The receptionist had told us breakfast started at 8, but we were ready at 7:30, so we just waited in the lobby. When 8 rolled around, and there was no breakfast in sight, we asked the owner, who spoke no English, but he kept pointing down the road. Finally the English-speaking receptionist showed up, who explained that the restaurant was in a different building, about half a kilometer back. Oh. We biked over and figured out the day as we ate. We’ve noticed that the further along we go, the less alike what we call bacon and what they call bacon become. And whatever white coffee is, I like it. We discovered there isn’t a ferry here after all here, so we will be biking on the Serbian side to the town opposite the one I had originally planned on the Romanian side. All fine and dandy, but we hand’t counted on needing much more Serbian currency. But since there aren’t a lot of towns on this stretch, so we got lots of fruit before heading out. Everything was going fine until the Official Route said to turn down at Lepenski Vir, an important archaeological site discovered in prep work for the Iron Gates Dam. This lead us down a very steep road to little cafe, but since they didn’t take credit cards, we had to be content with just a little ice cream.  We then had to go back up via a similarly steep path, only to be shunted back down to a dry creek.  I now Officially Hate the Official Route and everyone associated with drawing it up. We walk our bikes across the rocky bed until we finally get to a “trail” which leads up at about a 12% grade; if we had ignored the route and stayed on the highway, it would have been relatively flat along this stretch. We finally join the main road just in time for it to make a long, steep ascent.  Oh, joy. We have to stop several times before reaching the summit to catch our breath. Coasting downhill for a couple of miles is great, but doesn’t really make up for the unnecessary detour. We finally roll into Donji Milanovac close to 3, and the restaurant we pick at least takes Euros, so we can eat. Checking the reviews of the only hotel does not encourage us, but I see the tourist office next door, so go over there and get a private room at an apartment that turns out to be quite nice.  I immediately go to sleep upon arrival, but John takes a shower before doing so. About 7 I wake up and follow suit, then John heads back to the center to watch a soccer match and eat dinner while I go back to sleep.